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#1
05-04-2010, 12:19 PM
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Sherline 4000A project
Ordered parts from Sherline and of course Rockcliff, to retrofit the Sherline. It's an older 3" model, but upgrades the same as the newer 3.5" versions.
This project is actualy 2 projects. 1) Upgrade the Sherline 2) Get rid of the Smooth Stepper/Notebook setup I'm using on the Model A and build a single, small/portable, networked, PC for both machines. 
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#2
05-04-2010, 04:28 PM
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Curmudgeon,
Sounds like a cool project. For getting rid of the laptop/smoothstepper I would suggest that you look into picking up an old 1500mhz or faster Shuttle XPC system from your local craigslist site. I have seen them going for about $50-70 here depending on configuration. Most that I have seen have a LPT port in the motherboard and usually have a PCI slot so you can add another one (to run both systems at the same time if you really wanted to.  ) ( Here is one near you for $50 http://houston.craigslist.org/sys/1702959806.html ) I picked one up for my CNC and it worked well when I was testing out the motors, but it was too nice a unit for the shop and now it is being used to stream Netflix and store pictures in my living room. Regards, BoorT
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#3
05-04-2010, 05:24 PM
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I picked up a small form factor PC when I was just starting to build the Model A. Then I set it aside and used a notebook instead. Now I'm back to using it. It's barely bigger than a shoe box. I may put a handle on it, seriously. It can't stay in the shop. Won't last one summer down here on the humid Gulf Coast. I put a cheep display and a cheep keyboard on it that will stay in the shop, but the PC is going to slogged back and forth. I'm running a network cable to the shop also.
Well, that the plans anyway........
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#4
05-04-2010, 09:27 PM
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curmudgeon,
That is sounds about the same as what I have here. They are easy enough to add a handle to. Some of the Gamers that I have seen get a strong drawer pull from the hardware store and drill a couple of holes in the top cover and put the screws through a couple of large outer diameter fender washers and into the handle. There used to be an accessory strap made out of ripstop nylon that wrapped around the computer and was held in place with 2 clips (like form a backpack or hippack) it had a nice molded rubber handle for carrying the SFF box to LAN parties. Probably easy enough to make if you have a craft store or Mal*wart close by. As for running a network cable is WiFi not an option? I'm oldscool and have been using SneakerNet to share files. I just move my gcode out to the machine using a large flash drive. This keeps my Windows/MACH3 system from upgrading itself without my permission. Regards, BoorT
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#5
05-04-2010, 11:44 PM
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I'm using a flash drive now, but the notebook only has two usb ports and I'm always having to unplug one. The new PC only has two as well, but a hub would solve that problem wouldn't it. It also has two open slots I can use. My son has volunteered to set up wi-fi if I want it. I may consider that as well. I sure am getting tired of running back and forth between the shop and the the upstairs game room where the PC and internet are. but it not just to copy files, I only have the CAD/CAM stuff on the PC in the house. Maybe I load my CAD/CAM stuff on the CNC PC so I can make adjustments without a round trip. I'll have to check out the license agreement. Right now I'm headed out of town on business for a few days so no progress till the weekend at best.
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#6
05-05-2010, 11:48 PM
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curmudgeon,
That sounds similar to what I do except my "run" between the design station and the CNC machine in the shop is about 7 miles.  I have a emc2 setup on an old linux box at home so that I can see how the toolpaths look before I take them over to the shop to cut them. If I really need to make changes I can use SSH and VNC to get into my system at home from the shop, make the changes and copy the new gcode back over the wire to the flash drive. This is usually good for larger changes that I can't just edit the gcode by hand to fix.Regards, BoorT
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#7
05-11-2010, 01:49 PM
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Got the parts from Sherline, but no time to fit them yet. So many projects !!!
Still trying to master the use of a jig and offsets to make the duck call parts.
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#8
05-17-2010, 12:17 PM
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Update.
Started the Sherline upgrade and lathe has no factory holes where they are needed. I was expecting to drill and tap per the jigs in the kit, but the holes for the jigs are not there. I think my Sherline is much older than it looks. I'll send the kit back or post it on Craig’s List. As for the PC, spent considerable time loading up the software on the new PC, but never could Get Mach3 completely installed. It ran, but I was never able to open up the motor config displays...weird. Looking for possible fixes I ran across this post about configuring laptops/notebooks as standard PC's. http://www.machsupport.com/forum/ind...ic,5981.0.html Gave this a try on my PC and it made all the difference in the world ! Ran a long 3d tool path and it never missed a pulse. No more Smooth Stopper! I also reset everything to 1/4 step and doubled the rapid speed. I’m pretty happy with the “Big Yellow Thing” performance right now. One step forward, one step sideways, one step back.
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#9
05-17-2010, 02:53 PM
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curmudgeon,
I've recently upgraded my 4410 with the CNC kit. Though my lathe is supposed to be the later version, there are only 2 mounting holes on the cross slide. The bed has no holes for mounting. You've to use the template provided to drill and tap the 2 holes. Scary experience for me but everything turned out well. With the upgrade done, I'm missing the feeling of turning the handwheels by hand..... sigh.... wong
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#10
05-17-2010, 04:09 PM
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Wong,
One of the guys here used stepper motors with a double shaft then attached the hand wheels to the shaft on the back of the motor. That way he can run his mill either CNC or by hand. Regards, Boort
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#12
05-17-2010, 04:39 PM
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Wong,
Yeah I see how the "clicking feel" caused by the steppers magnets could be a down side of trying to dial in manually. The back EMF can be removed by powering down your CNC controls and disconnecting the wires from the motors. On My router I put in quick disconnect molex plugs just for this reason. Be sure to TURN OFF your stepper drivers / breakout board and wait a few minutes before unplugging your motors or you can damage the boards. (At least that is true for the ones that I have.) Regards, BoorT
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#13
05-17-2010, 05:07 PM
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Don't know if the current problem I'm facing is due to my damaging of the board due to cranking too much of the handwheels without removing the wires. Mid way through operations, one of the motors would just go "limp". There was no power to that motor (the handwheel can be turned even with the power on). To get things moving, I've to power down the board, wait for a couple of mins and power it on again. Got to rezero my tool again to continue cutting with "Run From Here" in Mach3.
Wong
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#14
05-17-2010, 07:56 PM
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Wong,
It might be related but I doubt it. I made a mistake when I was setting up and thought that I had my motor disconnected at the control box, clamped a cordless drill on the back side and spun the axis from one side of the gantry to the other. I rember thinking that it was wierd that the power lights on my driver board for this axis were lit up when I could see the controler powersupply was unplugged. Now I probably got luckly in that I did not distroy the boards. but I don't think that a little adjustment here and ther would hurt. (I still zero out my z-axis by hand using the knobs with the system up and in estop. I know of others with more time on these systems than me who do the same.) If I remember you got your driver boards form Rockcliff So I would see what he says on if this is safe for your boards or not. Regards, BoorT
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#15
05-18-2010, 07:39 PM
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Quote:
How did you fasten the template to the bed and cross slide ? Also, what software do you use to draw the parts for the lathe ? I have Turbo CAD Designer and Vcarve pro, neither will draw a cylinder... Thanks !
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#16
06-21-2010, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
I use a G Clamp to hold the template. Do make sure that the shoulder of the template if pressed against the side of the bed you're drilling. For software, I'm using BobCadCam with their Lathe module. Took me quite a while to get started. And there were some issues with my settings on both BobCad and Mach3 that were finally resolved. Now I'm using the lathe manually. Still like the feel of manual turning. Regards, Wong
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#17
06-21-2010, 05:15 PM
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Me too, lot's of unfinished projects around the house this summer, and busy at work.
Quote:
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#18
06-22-2010, 05:08 PM
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I but the 4000A back to stock after a good cleaning and adjustment. It's a sweet lathe.
I purchases two semi complete Sherlines CNC units at a school auction. One has been retrofited with rockcliff hardware and the other is original stock stuff. I have the second one listed for sale on the local craigslist. http://houston.craigslist.org/tls/1792036079.html I'm making trial runs with the converted unit and will post up the results as soon as I have some that are worthy. I'm actually fine tunning the g-code now and about ready to put some decent stock on it and see what happenes. I'm having to make .02 deep cuts/pass and have 12 passes right now. More when I have it. PS Good to see both you guys "checking it", it's been pretty quiet lately.
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#20
06-22-2010, 10:29 PM
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You won't beleive this but I'm using Lazy Turn from ArtSoft. $0.00
I found it by chance on the ArtSoft forum, and it's working fine. It's buggy, and it's not pretty, but I can get starter g-code out of it. Most of the work of getting good g-code, is in how the profile is drawn. I still use Vectric to draw the original profile. You have to use offsets just right, and draw in only the upper left quadrant. But if you get the vector right, export it as a DFX, OPEN it up in Lazy Turn, and then get all the LT stuff set right, you get usable g-code. I've been learing g-code lately and have been able to speed up the original code quite a bit by doing rapid moves where possible. There is a bit of learning with Mach3 Turn as well. Just figuring out what had to be zeroed, and then how to zero those coordinates was a chore. Most of that is behind me now and I just need for the shop to cool down a bit so I can tolerate spending some time back at it. It's crazy hot right now and I can't cool the shop down after I get home before it's already my bedtime. Progress is being made on weekends only.
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#21
06-22-2010, 11:54 PM
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Curmudgeon,
Good to know, I'm slowly getting enought stuff out of my work area so that I might be able to dig out the lathe and figure out what it needs to get it running. I understand about not having enough time to do all of the things that you would like. I have been getting some sparse work done on putting the shop back together but it is moving slowly. We have been short handed at work so I have been very busy covering for the people who are out enjoying their summer vacations. Keep us in the loop on your progress with the lathe I would like to see how your calls turn out. BoorT
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#23
06-24-2010, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
There is a "Mach3 Turn" video that helps, but I still did not quite understand what was being said in the video, until I figured it out how things worked from my own trial and error. What I think would work best is some screen captures of all the steps from start to finish. It's hard sometimes to see how a factor in the drawing config influences the g-code, how some of the lazy turn factors influence it, and how Mach3 interprets them all.
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#24
06-25-2010, 04:22 AM
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No hurry. Do it when you're ready. I've not touch CNC on the lathe since upgrading it. Only did one trial cut with Mach3 Wizard to round the end of a steel stock. Pic attached.
I've just completed a die holder in aluminum. This is my first real project other than the tapping guide I did in steel some time back. Happy that I'm finally doing something with the machines. Mini Brass Torches for the kids will be next. Regards, Wong
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